Project cars for sale guide

So you are ready to build that hot rod you have always dreamed of driving. If you're plan is to modify a 2009 Nissan 350Z, the work is relatively easy; just break out your wallet and purchase a multitude of bolt on accessories. If you are a serious rebuilder from the muscle car era of the 70's, it may just take a little more elbow grease.
For discussion purposes, let's find ourselves a 1969 Chevelle. While I am big fan of the Chevy Nova and Camaro from the same era, they are much more challenging to build compared with other project cars due to the unibody construction. The Chevelle has a full frame from front to rear which will be a solid foundation to get the project started with.
Strip it:
The beauty of a full frame chassis is you can dismantle every component and be left with a structure that is easy to work with. Remove every nut and bolt, so the only thing left is the frame itself. Before you perform any work at all, sandblast the frame, so you can perform a thorough inspection. Check for cracks, holes, and broken welds. Make your repairs, check for square, and then apply a coat of quality primer.
Roll it:
Don't even think about the body just yet. The next step is to build a rolling chassis. Replace the entire front end steering with new parts. This includes ball joints, steering arms, tie rods, idler arms, even the center link. Your new hot rod will be fast; therefore, you need the ability to point it in the right direction.
Another consideration with flood-damaged project cars is the type of flood. If the damage was caused by salt water, then you need to consider the effects of corrosion. The car can still be a bargain, just be prepared for a little extra work.
Stop it:
Upgrade the front spindles to an aftermarket, heavy-duty spindle with disc brakes. Once you get your speedster rolling, you will need some serious stopping power. Don't skimp on the brake pads. Spring for a set of high-quality brake pads purchased from U.S. Brake, Performance Friction, or Hawk Performance Brakes.
By today's standards, you need to add disc brakes to the rear; unless, of course, you are a purist and are seeking that original stock-appearing look. If you are planning to add some serious HP and are thinking about a drag race or two, I recommend converting the rear end to a Ford 9” or an aftermarket quick-change set up. You will appreciate the ease of changing the rear gear in a Ford vs. the Chevy (and I'm a Chevy guy all the way).
Power it:
Unless you are an engine man or a machinist with a passion for building, don't waste your time assembling your own engine. Go to your local GM dealer or Summit Racing Equipment and purchase a crate motor. There are several levels of HP available, and the motor is delivered 100% complete and ready to drop in.
If you haven't been to the Summit Racing showroom, make the trip. For a car buff, a day at Summit is like a day at Disneyworld. Bring a friend to push the second shopping cart which will be packed full of all the toys you will need to complete your project. Summit has everything from lug nuts to headers to interior dress up kits. Chrome, chrome, and more chrome!
Skin it:
I wouldn't even mess around with the original body. Sell it for scrap. Fenders, doors, quarter panels, hoods, and deck lids are available at speed shops across the country. Check out Ausley's Chevelle Parts in Graham, North Carolina or surf the internet for an aftermarket vendor in your area.
Ausleys' has been in business since 1980 and specializes in Chevelles from 1964 to 1972. Owners Roger and Penny Ausley can offer free advice to make your build go smoother.
Paint it:
Painting is another job best left for the experts. The trick to a professional paint job is cleanliness. If you don't have a proper paint booth, you will never achieve that show car look. The secret is to prep the body very carefully with fine wet paper, clean it, and apply multiple coats of paint, wet sanding between each coat.
Insure it:
Your junk yard special cost you about 500 bucks, and that is what the insurance policy is rated for. You now have a classic car worth anywhere from $20,000 to $50,000, dependent upon the accessories you purchased to dress up your ride. It's time for an upgrade on the insurance policy.
Drive it:
It's time to savor the fruits of your labor. As you drive down the otherwise quiet streets of your neighborhood, heads will turn. Check out the project cars for sale here and find yourself something to work on.















